Large-fruited Champignon mushroom mycelium, 10 g

Stem. Relatively short—7–10 cm, up to 2 cm thick, spindle-shaped, whitish, covered with flakes. The base is noticeably thickened.
Flesh. White, dense, with an almond scent; turns red slowly and faintly when cut.

Growing Instructions
Compost used includes well-rotted horse manure, mullein, chicken manure, humus (topsoil from a deciduous forest), all-purpose potting mix, and compost from compost pits.
Compost preparation: by layering straw and manure, we form a pile (a mound). After stacking, the mound is watered daily to prevent it from drying out; it should not become a “swamp.” Turn the pile so that the outer layers end up inside and the inner layers outside 4–5 times throughout the entire substrate preparation period. A sign that the substrate is ready is the disappearance of the ammonia odor.
The finished compost is spread in garden beds (open ground) in a layer at least 10 cm thick, and in boxes and plastic bags in a layer at least 20 cm thick.
Planting guidelines: Planting depth: 5–7 cm. Sow small handfuls of mycelium into holes spaced 15–18 cm apart. While the mycelium is establishing itself, protect the bed from drying out with straw or burlap.
Fruiting: Optimal temperature range 16–29 °C, day-night lighting cycle or 4 hours per day in enclosed spaces; relative humidity should be at least 85% (use drip irrigation if necessary). The first mushrooms will appear in about 20–30 days. Fruiting occurs in waves and continues for 6 weeks, with 7–10 days between waves. Yield: 18 kg over three waves.
Application rate: one package is designed for 20 kg of compost.
Growing champignons in a home garden.
In open areas, champignons grow in shady spots, in partial shade—under trees, shrubs, in raspberry thickets, in strawberry beds, on the shaded sides of farm buildings and fences, where they are protected from direct sunlight.
The soil over an area of 2.5–3 m² must be loosened. Sow the mycelium onto the loosened surface. Then spread compost over the top in an even layer 5–7 cm thick.
The mycelium will begin to produce fruiting bodies in 2–2.5 months; until then, no visible changes will be noticeable on the soil surface. Fruiting lasts from early spring to late fall. Champignons can be planted throughout this entire period.
The plantation is not insulated for the winter. The spores do not die even at very low temperatures; they simply suspend their development.
Indoor cultivation of button mushrooms.
Any indoor space can be used—sheds, garages, attics, etc. The advantage of indoor cultivation is the ability to harvest fresh mushrooms year-round.
Mushrooms are grown in boxes with a total area of 1.5–2 m². A 10–12 cm layer of soil is spread on the bottom, the mycelium is added, and then covered with 5–7 cm of compost. The first mushrooms will appear in 2–2.5 months. The mushroom bed needs to be “fed” 3–4 times a year. Humidity, however, is easier to manage. Simply place a container of water next to the boxes, and it will gradually evaporate.
Amateur gardeners can plant button mushrooms in flower pots. Lightly loosen the soil, sow the mycelium, and cover it with 2–3 cm of all-purpose potting mix. Mushrooms do not harm plants. Such “cohabitation” is even considered beneficial.

Attention! Soil acidity is a very important factor for successful mushroom cultivation. For champignons, the optimal pH is 7–7.5. More acidic soil (lower pH) must be deacidified by watering with a solution of quicklime (100 g of lime per 5 L of water per 1 m²).

Amateur mushroom cultivation does not guarantee results, as mushroom growth depends heavily on many factors. Nevertheless, if you gain practice and acquire sufficient experience, you can expect decent results.