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Autumn Oyster Mushroom Mycelium, 10 g

Autumn Oyster Mushroom Mycelium, 10 g
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Autumn Oyster Mushroom Mycelium, 10 g

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Full description
Honey mushroom, true honey mushroom (Latin: Armillariella mellea)

Cap 3–10 cm in diameter (rarely up to 15–17 cm), initially convex, becoming flat, often with wavy edges. The cap can be colored in various shades ranging from honey-brown to greenish-olive, darker in the center. The surface is covered with sparse light-colored scales, which may disappear with age.
Flesh of young caps is dense and whitish, becoming thin with age; in the stems it is fibrous, and in mature mushrooms it has a coarse texture. The smell and taste are pleasant.
Gills are relatively sparse, adnate to the stem or slightly decurrent. Young gills are whitish or flesh-colored; as they mature, they darken slightly to pinkish-brown and may become covered with brown spots.
Stems are 8–10 cm long and 1–2 cm in diameter, solid, with a light yellow-brown surface, darker toward the base, up to brownish-brown. They may be slightly widened at the base but are not swollen. The surface of the stem, like that of the cap, is covered with flaky scales.

Growing instructions.
Growing oyster mushrooms on a substrate.
Straw, hay, corn cobs, and sunflower seed husks are used as substrate. In any case, the raw materials must be free of mold. It is advisable to add 1% superphosphate to the substrate. The prepared substrate is heat-treated to prevent mold. It is placed in a container and poured over with boiling water. Once it has cooled, the substrate is squeezed out and placed in a 30x40 cm plastic bag or in glass jars with a capacity of 0.5 to 3 liters, where the mushrooms will be grown. Summer oyster mushroom spawn is added to the prepared containers with the substrate at a rate of 0.4% of the substrate’s weight. It is placed in the center of the jar or bag, where a hole has been made through the entire thickness of the substrate using a wooden stick with a diameter of 1.5–2 cm. Inoculation of the substrate with mycelium lasts 30–40 days, depending on its volume, at a temperature of 15–25 °C. The substrate must not dry out, so the container is covered with damp burlap or paper or periodically moistened. Light is not required. As soon as the substrate is colonized, the containers are moved to a location with artificial or natural light and a temperature ranging from -7 °C to +10 °C— verandas, loggias, balconies, garden plots, etc. Mushroom primordia appear on the 10th day after the containers are placed in their permanent location. And after another 10 days, the primordia will develop into full-fledged mushroom bodies. Thus, the first mushrooms appear 2 months after planting. Harvest by carefully cutting the mushroom clusters at the base of the stems, and remove the remaining stems from the substrate. After 1.5–2 weeks, a second wave of mushrooms appears, and so on. Over the entire cultivation period, which lasts 3.5–4 months, 0.5 kg of mushrooms are harvested per 1 kg of substrate. In other words, from a single 3-liter jar, you can harvest up to 2 kg of mushrooms that are comparable in quality to wild honey mushrooms but superior in terms of ecological purity. The yield from a single packet of mycelium planted in 50 kg of moistened substrate ― up to 27 kg of high-quality, marketable mushrooms.

Growing on wood.
This method involves using wood as the substrate. At home, winter oyster mushrooms are grown on hardwood—aspen, poplar, willow, birch, walnut, apple, plum, etc. The wood can be used either cut into stumps or directly from the roots of a living tree. At a distance of 15–20 cm from each other, make cuts or drill holes 3–5 cm deep and 2–3 cm in diameter around the entire perimeter of the stump. Fill the cuts or holes with spawn. Mushrooms planted on wood grow for 5–6 years. However, one package is sufficient for 60–70 kg of wood.

Detailed growing instructions are on the back of the package.

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